The Neapolitan tailoring second part
The minimalist conception of Neapolitan tailoring eliminates all that is superfluous and focuses on the most natural fit and the entire construction of the jacket is in the sign of flexibility and lightness. Its characteristics are created to leave room for movement, originally to accommodate the typical habit of the Neapolitan man of accompanying words with a particular gesture.
The jacket of the Neapolitan tailoring has a unique cut, which distinguishes it from any other outerwear. To recognize the Neapolitan tailored jacket it is enough to identify the characteristic features that remain unchanged even today. Let's see the details that allow anyone to know how to recognize the specific characteristics that characterize the Neapolitan jacket.
- the jacket that “zompa arrèto”: the jacket is shorter at the back.
- the long pleat in the front and shorter in the back makes the jacket "slide" better along the body. The "martiello" neckline: the opening of the jacket on the shirt in geometry with lapels.
- the "mappina" sleeve (rag in Neapolitan dialect): the sleeves have a worn look and form a curl on the upper part. The sleeve is important in its upper part (the so-called "trumpet"), more rounded and rounded. It goes down slightly shorter for
show your shirt cuff better. This detail gives the possibility to move with ease.
- the sleeve is sewn "like a shirt": that is, the fabric is applied below the shoulder as used in shirts and with a slight softness of the lap.
- the "boat" pocket: the breast pocket is cut slightly concave on the upper edge, with the external part definitely raised so that it is similar to the profile of a boat (it must always have a kind of cannolo folding when you are seated).
- the “three buttons ripped in two”: single-breasted jacket with three buttons but ironed in two with the first of the three buttons always unfastened.
- height of the neck and slits: the Neapolitan jacket, unlike the others, has a high collar and has deep side slits, which in many cases can even reach 28-30 cm.
- double stitching: the stitching is visibly done twice both on the outside and inside.
- the "flying" lining: the lining is perfectly finished but open, it does not completely cover the inside of the jacket, but leaves the entire back uncovered, leaving the precision and cleanliness of the tailoring work visible.
- patch or patch pockets: typically Neapolitan pockets with a rounded shape. The applied pocket instead is a pignata, due to its peculiar shape similar to that of a pot.
- internal peninsula pockets. More comfortable and resistant, the internal pockets only partially come out of the lining.
- Lapels: lapels are wide, usually no less than 10 cm.
- the shot (pence): the first shot on the front reaches the bottom.
- buttons and buttonholes. The buttons on the sleeve are one for the sports blazer and two spaced for the suit. Here are some rumors: the wit of the Neapolitan artisans was such as to convince customers that a single button was more elegant as having eight eyelets embroidered instead of two costs more. The buttonholes are small and thick, (almost similar to those of a shirt). The buttonhole is generally parallel to the upper side of the lapel, thus assuming a different inclination according to the type of jacket: in the single-breasted, in fact, the joist, vertical seam on one side only, will be higher than the round part and vice versa in the double-breasted.
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