Man Shirt

An experienced eye carefully observes the cuffs and collars

For the elegant man, the fit of the shirt is an element of great importance, since it is a garment that must be perfect, adapting to the body of the wearer, without tightening or being too abundant.

You should know that there are three types of shirts that differ in fit: the classic, the custom and the slim fit. The choice of type falls exclusively on your body and how you like to feel it on. If soft and light you will opt for the "classic" model, if tight and snug that highlights your chest, you will opt for the "slim fit", for a middle ground, you just have to customize.

Classic Fit - this is the classic tailored shirt with a loose cut and comfortable fit, intended for the man who prefers a simple and essential style. It is a model of shirt that adapts to any type of body that requires a classic look. Solid colors are preferred, white or soft colors, perfect to wear under a suit with tie.

Custom Fit - The cut of the custom shirt is slightly fitted, tighter than the “classic fit”, but more formal than the “slim”. A peculiarity that makes it suitable for a formal look, but also ideal for those who choose a casual fit, without being too trendy. It is the intermediate cut that makes the shirt perfect both under and without the suit. More elegant in classic colors, in thin stripes, bold in strong colors and vintage tones, it is also perfect with chinos for informal clothing.

Slim Fit - These are the tighter cut shirts, with a slim fit aimed at the fashion-conscious man, who prefers a snug but comfortable garment. Precisely due to the characteristic of the waisted cut it is suitable for a slim build. Ideal for an informal look without a jacket, it can be worn inside or outside trousers, it also goes well with jeans, in dark solid colors, in patterns and stripes, or in vintage fabric.

... a distracted eye will see no differences except in color and fantasy, a slightly more attentive one will perhaps notice the change of fabric, an expert eye instead observes very carefully the cuffs and collars ...

The collar, together with the cuffs, is often the only visible part of the shirt.
Consequently, its importance is fundamental: it will focus on the collar of a shirt
the gaze of your interlocutor, but also of those around you, for example at the restaurant or on the plane.
This premise explains well why there are many who choose the shirt, first of all evaluating the collar, both from the aesthetic point of view and from the wearability point. If your neck, shoulders and body in general are in harmony with this detail, your appearance will certainly benefit. Now let's see in detail how to choose the right collar. A trick to understand if the measurement is correct is to wear the shirt and try to move the neck to the right and left: if the points of the collar remain in place, the measurement is perfect.
Secondly, you have to wear the jacket and understand if the cuff adequately covers (neither too much nor too little) the lower edge of the collar and the tips, also making sure that at the nape of the neck the neck is always in sight and never co since the sale. The choice of the tie to match is fundamental, even more so than the type of knot to be used. A too bulky knot, for example, can
bring the tips of the collar to rise, with a noticeable unsightly result.
A brief overview of the categories of collars and any ties to match will clarify the matter better.

Italian collar (eng. Kent collar) - Collar with straight points, ideal for formal and social occasions. Depending on the body and the type of tie you want to wear, the measurements and the distance from the tips of this type of collar can vary by a few centimeters.

French collar (eng. Cutaway collar) - Also known as the open bed (in France it is called "Italian style"), an open model considered young and trendy. It is suitable for those who want to dress formal without giving up the pleasure of showing off a voluminous tie knot. A pleasure that the Duke of Windsor made famous all over the world: the name of the Windsor knot is due to him.
The French collar is in my opinion extremely refined!

Button Down Collar - Also called So   Roll Collar. This category includes collars that feature two buttons to stop the tips. It is a soft and informal model, used above all by those who love casual / sports clothing but can also be worn with a tie. Its origin can be traced back to the beginning of the last century, when one of the Brooks brothers was inspired by the uniforms of polo players to create what would become the present Button Down Collar.

Club collar - Suitable for formal and non-formal occasions, the Club collar has the particularity of having rounded tips. Very popular in the 1920s, in recent seasons it seems to relive a new "youth". Pin-collar - Much loved by Americans, it has never caught on in Europe. The pincollar involves the use of a pin to join the tips in order to support the knot of the tie. A tie is a must when choosing this type of collar.

Wing-collar (eng. Wing-collar) - A model characterized by tips bent outwards.
As the name suggests, it is suitable for very elegant occasions together with tight, tuxedos or tailcoats, where the use of cuffs with cufflinks is a must. It is usually present on white or ivory shirts made from fine fabrics.

Korean - Also called Mao neck, essentially composed only of the solino. Used in the past for tunics and nightgowns, then for shirts suitable for tuxedos and tailcoats, today instead for casual and sporty linen shirts.

The cuffs, the terminal part of the sleeve, are the veiled detail of the shirt, although we do not realize they are a fundamental detail of style and elegance, they are not all the same but the rule applies to everyone: they must come out about 1 cm from the jacket.

Made of double fabric, they are lined on the inside for a certain body. Like the collar, they should be chosen according to the model of the shirt and according to the occasion, thus ensuring an accurate and elegant look, avoiding running into bad figures.
The fundamental peculiarity among the various types of cuffs is the closure, which is identified in two variants: closed by a button (simple buttoning) or with only the buttonholes, which require the use of particularly chic cufflinks.

Cuffs for cufflinks fall into the category of the most refined shirts, known as "French". They are very tall, usually between 10 and 12 centimeters, with a double buttonhole and are folded back on themselves.
To be equipped with these types of cuffs are the shirts intended for a very formal use, usually combined with elegant suits made to measure or for important occasions.

The cuffs with simple button have a height of about half (6-7 cm) and 8 cm in the two-button version. The terminal opening of the sleeve extends towards the forearm for 15 cm and takes the name of fessino. In tailored shirts with a simple cuff (it) is closed approximately in the middle by a smaller button than the others and ends at the top with a small pointed seam called fly.
This detail allows a greater fit and gives the possibility to roll up the sleeves more easily, keeping them in order. Not normally used for double wrists with twins.

The final part of the cuff can be of different types, each suitable for different situations:

Blunt is very versatile, combined with a classic collar distinguishes a morning dress shirt.

Round, also called rounded, tends to be suitable for more elegant shirts. 

Double buttonhole, particularly suitable for sports or checked shirts. To be worn even with only one button connected.

Double button has the particularity of adapting more easily to the size of the wrist. Trick
comfortable for the left wrist where more space is often needed to make room for the watch.

Straight or square angled, it is suitable for more casual and sporty shirts. Particularly suitable for those who usually roll up their sleeves.
To do this elegantly, it is important to do a maximum of 2 turns, with the sleeves reaching just below the elbow.

From cufflinks, also called double or French, they are to be preferred especially on formal and elegant occasions.

Double use, suitable for those with the same shirt who want to be able to wear cufflinks on formal occasions or button the wrist on all three occasions.

Straight short with the square corner has a length of 6 cm. It is particularly suitable for slim shirts, combined with collars with short tips.

Whether you wear a simple button closure or the one with cufflinks, always remember the fundamental rule: the cuff must protrude from the jacket by about one centimeter, taking into account this rather precise measurement denotes a truly impeccable style.

The true gentleman, when choosing a tailored shirt, orders a spare collar and cuffs.
These will be washed from time to time, over time, to follow the life of the shirt: in this way, when replacing them with those worn out by time, they will be perfectly matched, obtaining a not too new look.