Tecnofibre: why stay away from them

For this reason also called "manmade" fibers

Chemical fibers or techno-fibers are filamentary materials industrially produced by man through physical and chemical industrial processes, which is why they are also called “manmade” fibers.

They are identified in two large families: artificial fibers and synthetic fibers.

Very different from each other, they have in common the manufacturing principle: a fluid, composed of macromolecules (polymers) obtained by amalgamating together small molecules (monomers), pass through a series of holes and come out in the form of parallel filaments (burrs) that , joined together, they can give rise to a continuous thread, or a ribbon (unatow) destined to be transformed into a staple.

Artificial fibers are obtained from natural products and renewable raw materials, such as wood cellulose and cotton linters, or animal proteins, milk casein (lanitalmerinova) and vegetable Soybean Protein Fiber (soy) also called vegetable cashmere.

Through chemical processes these products are made soluble. In this way the solutions obtained, after filtering, are collected in a coagulation bath which causes them to solidify in the form of more or less long threads. They can also be similar to natural fibers. They are man-made fibers: viscose, rayon, cupro bemberg, acetate, modal, triacetate and lyocell, and microfiber.

Artificial fibers allow a certain transpiration of the fabric and generally a lower accumulation of static charges compared to synthetic fibers.

Synthetic fibers are simpler substances mainly coming from the petrochemical industry. Derived from different polymers obtained with different chemical reactions, they are distinguished from artificial fibers as they originate from the direct transformation of chemical substances and not from the processing of natural products treated with chemical substances, as occurs for artificial fibers.

The latter, obtained from synthetic chemical compounds, derived from petroleum and reduced to more or less long filaments, can be recognized on the basis of the starting raw materials, organic or inorganic, and the manufacturing processes. With their modernized characteristics they represent the innovation of weaving. The main synthetic fibers are: polyester, nylon, acrylic, polypropylene, elastane and lycra, spandex, polyester, terital, fleece, and micro-fiber.

Among the artificial and synthetic fibers we remember the Microfiber. The term "microfiber" does not indicate a particular textile fiber. Microfibers are twice as thin as silk and three times as fine as cotton, with a thickness of approx. 10 ? and a weight less than 0.1 denier (unit of measurement of the diameter of the fibers corresponding to the weight, in g, of 9000 m of fiber).

The extreme lightness of the fiber makes the microfibre fabrics soft and soft to the touch. Four types of microfibers are produced derived from the microfilament of acrylic, nylon, polyester and rayon fibers; some microfibre fabrics can be obtained by combining two different types of fiber; nylon with polyester: in this case we are talking about hybrid fibers.

Precisely for this reason the textile labeling law is clear. The term cannot be used individually, but only to accompany the name of the polymer that constitutes it. For example 100% microfiber polyester and not 100% microfiber. The structure of a microfiber can be modified through extrusion, changing the shape and size of the hole through which the fiber exits.

The surface characteristics of the microfibre affect the sensitivity to touch and the way in which the fabric reflects light: using special procedures it is possible to make microfibre fabrics that have the property of changing color depending on the angle of incidence of light.

The real advantage of man-made fibers is that these materials cost less, can be colored more easily, can be tailored to suit the specific applications they are intended for. They are resistant to mold and bacteria, are easier to clean, often crease less or even do not crease.

Now let's see the downside. They do not allow our skin to breathe well, do not absorb sweat, cause electrostatic phenomena and cannot be boiled so they cannot be sterilized.

They cause allergies, caused by specific dyes for chemical fibers. Dangerous to wear as, in the event of combustion, they burn with an open flame, which is difficult to extinguish, and at the same time melt so as to cause very serious burns. And so far we have only taken into account possible and possible damage to our body, but have we thought about the environmental impact?

To obtain and improve the qualities (anti-mold, anti-crease, anti-moth), these fibers require a long series of procedures and chemicals that produce residues and contribute to damage to the surrounding environment.

My advice, and I also think that of my friend Maurizio Michel Landini, Supply Chain Manager of INEXCELSIS studio, is to push us to take into greater consideration the possibility of choosing and

wear clothing made with natural fibers: cotton, wool, silk, linen.