The Double Breasted

The jacket always has peak lapels that is, they end in a pointed shape upwards, generally about 12 cm wide and have a buttonhole in each of them, with the aim of maintaining maximum symmetry between the right and left side, these details give importance and personality to the garment.

The more classic model has 6 buttons (two rows of three). Of the three pairs of buttons only the lower two really work with their own buttonhole and a decorative one, normally only one is fastened; the central one on the right, to ensure that the lacing is perfect, even the central one on the left (anchor button), hidden inside. This variant is called the 6 X 2 model, that is: six buttons are present, but only two

functional. The two buttons at the top, exclusively decorative, are offset from the others, thus following the line of the peak lapel. There are also other models with more or less buttons, such as 6 X 3, (therefore two rows of three buttons all functional) less seen today and of Edwardian inspiration, or with two rows of 4 or more buttons that recalls the buttoning of military uniforms

from which this type of buttoning seems to have its origin.

The rules for accessories to wear with a double-breasted suit are very similar to those of a single-breasted elegant jacket. Both tie and bow tie can be worn.

By default, the double-breasted suit wants a tie around the neck, due to its formal nature. In the field of classic clothing, not wearing a tie with an elegant double-breasted suit is equivalent to a misstep.

The rule is that the width of the tie is the same width as the lapels, in the jacket double-breasted is not applicable, as it often has very wide lapels so it is not easy to maintain this proportion.

The jacket is always buttoned, both when standing and sitting.

The double-breasted blazer is a real passepartout, a fascinating way to dress on multiple occasions. With a pair of slim-cut, medium gray Tasmanian trousers and a derby with buckle and refined sock, for a chic businnes; on a pair of jeans and a moccasin or sailing shoe for a more relaxed, casual chic look. The details make the difference

To give a touch of elegance, I recommend the joist on the back of the left lapel, embroidered on purpose to support the boutonniere.

Personally I suggest the natural shoulder in the double-breasted suit, a slightly padded shoulder and the Neapolitan-style sewn sleeve, that is softly in a shirt crepe.

The double-breasted jacket pocket, cut and moderately inclined like a boat.

Hand-embroidered buttonholes are an essential element, a detail that makes the difference.

The pocket cut horizontally and finished with a flap.

For years, the indispensable uniform of the most formal men. The masters of elegance have it

for a long time one, perfectly drawn, in the closet.

The double-breasted jacket is no longer seen as it once was, that is, a garment reserved for middle age, on the contrary it is currently also valued by young people as it is one of those garments capable of being hyper sophisticated but also very casual.

Sergio Cairati

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